Singapore: A Happy Accident
- jcstift
- Mar 3
- 14 min read
Singapore claims the title of best “rest stop” ever. In planning the annual Granny, Mom, Daphne trip (destination Bali), it was clear that we would transit through Singapore’s Changi airport en route from California. We waffled on whether or not to pause in our travels to explore the “Garden City,” and ultimately decided we would be remiss if we failed to take advantage of the opportunity to discover this tiny island nation.
Day 1: The Garden City
Given our bodies were insistent on being awake by 4am, it was fortunate that the National Botanic Gardens opens at 5am and our hotel (the Mandarin Oriental) offered the most amazing Pain au Chocolat and Croissants for those heading out before the restaurants open.
The National Botanic Gardens are uniformly the first thing people recommend when you tell them you are traveling to Singapore. They are an UNESCO Heritage Site and immense. We wandered for three hours and barely scratched the surface. We were treated to lily pads with diameters greater than our heights, dozens of varieties of ginger, delicate orchids, bright, noisy birds, and somewhat terrifying monitor lizards.
Leaving the National Botanic Gardens, we set off for Orchard Rd., Singapore’s famous shopping district. It looks like a cross between South Coast Plaza and the Mall of America. All of the names are brands recognizable from home; there is a mixture of high-end labels and discount options; and it is large enough that at some point you realize that is the fourth Zara you have seen.
Singapore is reminiscent of Las Vegas in that things appear exceedingly close but somehow just aren’t. One of our cab drivers explained that all roads in Singapore are one way - which resulted in a 2-mile drive to transport us half a mile as the crow flies. It turns out, it is just as difficult to find direct walking routes in Singapore. We eventually discovered the most efficient mechanism to navigate the city-nation was making our way to the massive subterranean mall, which provided a respite from the heat and humidity, and offered convenient arrows pointing the way to the Mandarin Oriental everywhere we wandered.
As evening fell, we decided to further our understanding of how Singapore came by its “Garden City” moniker and check out the Gardens by the Bay, which includes two enormous greenhouses. The Flower Conservatory is reminiscent of the conservatory off the lobby of the Belagio Casino; see more Vegas references. It is spectacular, but very “done” and clearly is completely changed to reflect seasons and holidays. During our visit, it was filled with hydrangeas in every imaginable shade of white, pink, purple, and blue, clustered in groups larger than basketballs.
The Cloud Conservatory is remarkable: a 7-story waterfall greets visitors as they enter and the entire experience feels like walking through a lush rainforest. We traversed rope bridges through lush foliage as we spiraled our way to the top.
We rounded out our day of botanical gardens with a stroll through Singapore’s “Supertrees.” These massive mechanical trees act as vertical gardens, generate solar power, collect rainwater, and operate as air venting ducts for the conservatories we had just visited. In addition, they moderate temperatures in the garden and provide shade to visitors. By the end of our visit, we clearly saw that Singapore’s Supertrees are emblematic of a nation that seamlessly blends a great love for the natural world into an efficient, bustling metropolis.
We rounded out our first day with dinner at Dolce Vita, the Mandarin Oriental’s Italian restaurant. It should be noted that it is always our goal to experience local fare when traveling. However, the other nearby dining options required a longer wait than we were willing to accommodate given the appetites our wandering had generated. So, we had an absolutely lovely dinner than didn’t resemble Italian food as we know it in any way whatsoever. We concluded that Singapore-Italian is a category of its own and considered our choice of restaurants a happy circumstance.
Day 2: An Exploration of Temples
Our second day in Singapore was, to put it mildly, an education. If our first day was devoted to exploring the basis of Singapore’s claim to its “Garden City” nickname, day two was focused on exploring the various cultures that come together to give Singapore its richness.
Waking up early, we grabbed a cab over to the Malay, or indigenous, section of Singapore, which is marked by colorful shophouses on Koon Seng Rd. Given that Singapore is an island state, all of the land available for building is already occupied and the only direction available to build is up. Fortunately, the sherbet colored row houses along Koon Seng Rd., which each used to house 40 people on their second floors and operate as shops on the ground floors, are protected as a historical site.
From Koon Seng Rd., we proceeded to Little India where our first stop was Sri Veermankaliaman Temple, a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Kali, destroyer of evil. As one of the oldest temples in Singapore, having been constructed by 19th century Indian immigrants, Sri Veermankaliaman Temple serves as a center of Indian social and cultural activity. It marks the entrance to the area designated for Indian habitation under the British Colonial government.
Built in the Dravidian style of South Indian Tamil temples, Sri Veermankaliaman Temple is covered with colorful, ornate carvings of Hindu deities. One enters the temple through the “gopurum” which leads into the temple compound. The temple compound has numerous shrines to guardians around the sanctum. Both the street approaching the temple and the interior of the compound boast numerous vendors peddling flowers, fruit, candles, and oil lamps for offerings to the various gods and goddesses. Later in the day, our guide explained that different gods prefer different offerings, which accounts for the great variety.
At the time of our visit, we did not understand how unique our experience at Sri Veermankaliaman Temple would be, but it was the only temple we visited that permitted non-Hindu visitors in all parts of the temple and allowed photography in all areas.
Walking further into Little India, our next destination was Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple. Here, we were asked to leave our shoes outside the entrance, and wraps are available for any visitors whose shoulders or legs are not covered. Architecturally similar to Sri Veermankaliaman Temple, Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple is constructed on land purchased from the East India Company. The temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna, one of Vishnu’s incarnations, who is represented within by a statue depicting him in the color blue in reference to his noble blood. The opulent temple incorporates multiple shrines and sanctums to additional deities, allowing supplicants to direct their prayers as desired. The carvings on Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple’s tall gopurum represent the various incarnations of the god Lord Vishnu, the protector. The height of the gopurum allows it to be seen from afar, permitting worshipers to offer up their prayers at a distance.
Founded by a Thai monk, Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple sits within Singapore’s Little India, but melds Thai, Chinese, and Indian influences into its architecture. After the elaborate Hindu Temples we visited, Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple appeared modest from the street. However, upon entering the building also known as the Temple of a Thousand Lights, visitors are greeted by a dramatic, 15-meter tall statue of Buddha. Most significantly, this little temple houses a piece of bark from the Bodhi tree under which the original Buddha sat when he achieved enlightenment.
Day 2: Eating our Way through Little India
Having already made great use of our early morning, we connected with PS, our guide from EverydayFoodTours.com, at our designated meeting point next to street art commemorating Little India’s origins as cattle land at the entrance to its wet market. For the next 4 hours, PS, a native of Singapore who had studied business in the U.S., introduced us to the food, street art, history, and customs of Singapore’s Indian and Chinese neighborhoods.
(This tour is among my top five tours of all time. If you go to Singapore, do yourself a favor and schedule a tour with EverydayFoodTours.com, and show up hungry.)
The area in which Little India sits was once on the banks of a river, which is now merely a canal. After PS helped us understand the seed from which Singapore’s Little India grew, she led us into its central wet market. In addition to stall after stall of increasingly interesting seafood, the market teemed with fruit of every size, color, and shape imaginable. One stall simply sold dozens of varieties of ginger – a major shock to an American who sometimes can’t locate any ginger root in the store and resorts to buying a squeeze bottle of pre-grated ginger. PS steered us towards vendors she had relationships with and provided us with samples of fruits that aren’t as common in the states, such as jackfruit (a mild, meaty fruit often used as a substitute protein in vegan cooking).
Durian, the national fruit of Singapore, happened to be in season during our visit – a fact that was evident from its powerful stink. It smells like stinky cheese. But I like stinky cheese. However, PS convinced us not to try it – I was the only one interested, and PS said only about 5% of visitors like it - I completely regret not tasting!
We were then led into a section of the market reserved for food stalls, where PS procured a table and we gratefully sat down as PS took off to acquire a wide sampling of street foods. We tasted iced tea loaded with lime and spice, hot ginger tea sweetened with condensed milk, a salad of tofu, tempeh and pakora in a peanut curry sauce, thin pancakes with daal (lentils) and a coconut based sauce, and various types of roti. PS taught us that each item came from a different stall which specializes in a single dish and that the proprietor of each stall perfects their recipe over multiple generations.
We stood from our repast and waddled upstairs to discover a world of stalls packed with brightly colored clothing, each with a tailor on sight ready to ensure a perfect fit. The initial prices quoted were so low, we immediately moved to grab our wallets and provide the requested sums. However, PS rapidly negotiated a 30% reduction in price and advised us that bargaining is expected and failure to do so would be considered insulting.
Day 2: Over-Eating in Chinatown
Having acquired gifts for family back home, we moved on to Singapore’s Chinatown.
Our first stop was Bee Chen, a glossy, bustling store full of beautifully packaged sweet, chewy, jerky style meats. We learned that Bee Chen has been a Chinatown staple since the proprietor simply had a stack of marinated meat and a grill on the street. After tasting a few varieties, we each bought several packages. We claimed they were souvenirs, but I devoured mine over the rest of our stay. Fortunately, Bee Chen has become quite an empire, and I found another location in Changi Airport and reloaded my supplies before heading home.
In addition to the storefronts, street cart vendors, and architecture bringing color and life to Singapore’s Chinatown, the walls are covered with street art depicting important elements of the Chinese-Singapore culture, such as a mural changed annually to reflect the current Chinese zodiac year and one dedicated to the preparation of moon cakes.
My favorite piece depicts a gentlemen seated, pen in hand, at a table with a background of hanging writings – gold on red backgrounds to celebrate the New Year. An empty chair across from the man invites passers-by to interact with the mural. PS explained that the gentleman was known as “the writer.” He wrote and read letters home for the Chinese immigrants of Singapore. Our guide pointed out this position gave the writer access to all of the information in the community, and was, therefore, one of great power. The role of the writer was phased out when Singapore gained its independence from colonization and established a mandatory 10 years of school.
Ushering us into the Chinese food mart, PS walked us through aisles lined with over 300 specialty food stalls, pointing out particular locations that have earned Michelin recognition or boast recipes that have been passed down for 5 or more generations. She stepped up for quick conversations with vendors, sometimes sliding to the front of long lines and waving a finger or two when she caught the proprietor’s eye, and ushered us to an empty table in an open area past the stalls. Disappearing for a few minutes, she returned laden with popiah, “carrot cake,” satay, and sugarcane juice.
While the satay was recognizable, neither the popiah nor the carrot cake bore any resemblance to anything I had eaten before. Singapore carrot cake actually is a mild savory omelette packed with daikon, rather than what an American would call carrots or cake. Popiah loosely resemble burritos, but have so many unique textures and flavors that the first glance is where the resemblance ends. I proclaimed it my favorite immediately, but I admit to employing that superlative multiple times throughout the day.
Following our second lunch of the day, PS strolled the length of Chinatown with us to the Buddha Tooth Temple. The temple houses four of Buddha’s teeth. They are kept safely on the 4th floor and are only displayed one day a year.
As with many religious relics, there is great controversy surrounding the teeth. Some have claimed they are too long to be human. Others believe in their authenticity. The prevailing attitude in Singapore is that if you believe they are Buddha’s teeth, they are Buddha’s teeth. This seems like an eminently reasonable approach to religious differences.
Regardless of factual determinations of authenticity, the acquisition of the teeth brought in 120 million Singapore dollars in donations to build a temple to house them.
Reaching the end of the hustle and bustle of Chinatown’s main thoroughfare, we moved into a quieter street still lined with Chinese shops. PS paused to show us a Chinese medicine market packed with more types of mushrooms than I knew existed, hung with bundles of herbs, and displayed many things I couldn't identify.
Having explored all the strange and wonderful things displayed at the medicine market, we arrived at our last two stores of the tour and managed to cram dessert into our entirely too full bellies. The first treat was a slice of Pandas Cake, Singapore’s national dessert. It is a soft sponge cake, with a mild flavor, and just a hint of sweetness. A few storefronts later, we were treated to egg custard creams from Singapore’s oldest bakery.
Day 2: Aquarium
Taking our leave of PS, we moved philosophically as far away as we could from Singapore’s ethnic neighborhoods, making our way to Sentosa Island, home to Singapore Disney and Universal Studios. Rather than these monuments to American culture, our destination was the Southeast Asia Aquarium. Even Daphne, our aquarium connoisseur, was absolutely amazed and enjoyed the pre-arranged meet and greet with characters she hoped to encounter in the wild when we moved on to Bali and her planned diving adventures in the next leg of our journey.
Exhausted, but not yet done, we caught a cab to Raffles Hotel, a relic of Singapore’s colonial era, to experience a Singapore Sling at Long Bar, the site of its origination. At a time when it was not acceptable for ladies to drink, men would sit on the veranda and flirt with them as they walked past. An enterprising bartender created the Singapore Sling, a fruity, pink concoction. It became an acceptable, if potent, beverage for women and opened a whole new market. Demonstrating their great ingenuity, the proprietors of Long Bar ultimately invented a machine which permitted the simultaneous making of a number of Singapore Slings to meet the high demand for the refreshing cocktail.
Day 3: Kampong Glam, The Muslim District
On our last day in Singapore, we set off for the Muslim District. Unfortunately, our first stop, the Sultan Mosque, was closed to the public from 7-10, but we did view the remarkable onion domed building that serves as the center of Singapore’s Kampong Glam district from the outside. Kampong Glam translates to Paper Bark Tree Compound in Malay after the local paperbark trees the Malays use for everything from boat building to medicine.
While we weren’t able to explore the Interior of the Sultan Mosque, the streets of Kampong Glam did not disappoint. The Islam/Malay district was far more akin to a Paris street full of cafes than the bustling fruit stalls of the Indian and Chinese districts. But its alleys were covered with bright murals, clearly differentiating it from any other place I have visited. In fact, I have awarded Kampong Glam the “World’s Best Alley Décor” title.
Universally, Singapore’s alleys are testaments to how clean Singapore is. While there are clear distinctions between places of extravagant wealth and the 80% of Singapore’s population that lives in government subsidized housing, we did not stumble upon one spot in this tiny island-nation that was not impeccably cared for or had the appearance of a slum.
Bonus Day: Changi Airport
Every tour book, travel blog, recommendation, or other advice regarding travel to Singapore asserts “You must allocate time to see the airport!”
What? Isn’t the airport simply a necessary evil for traveling great distances, particularly when water crossings are involved?
Not in Singapore.
In fact, there is so much to do in Changi Airport, that we had a plan of attack similar to our approach to any other day of exploration.
We began by wandering several art galleries that took us from our hotel to the Rain Vortex, the 7-story waterfall that is the centerpiece of Changi. 10,000 gallons of water fall from the top per minute and that water is recirculated to the top of the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, which is encircled by a massive terraced garden offering walking trails and balcony overlooks.
After viewing the Rain Vortex, we separated so that we could each pursue our own goals within the Jewel, the massive shopping and entertainment venue at the center of Changi. Daphne set off for Starbucks, Granny explored the wide variety of stores, and I found a cozy tapas restaurant. After eating, I began to wander in a vague effort to reunite with my travel companions and discovered that the Jewel's architects were apparently more concerned with aesthetics than function and an escalator might take one from two to five, rather than a single floor.
Finding myself on five, when I thought I was en route to three, I took a few minutes to check out the seventh floor adventure park which consisted of rope bridges and nets and all sort of obstacles. I imagine someone who isn’t terrified of heights would have a great time!
I eventually discovered one could just touch any of the large information screens throughout the Jewel and indicate an intended destination. The screen would respond by showing a figure walking a dotted line to the appropriate elevators to descend or ascend directly to the appropriate floor.
These explorations barely scratched the surface of Changi. We didn’t patronize the movie theatre, sleep pods, spas, or butterfly garden, to list but a few . . . but we did enjoy the wide variety of art installations and vertical gardens providing moments of interest around every corner.
Despite this plethora of attractions, the single most fascinating aspect of Changi was Chris. Chris is a member of a team of robots who works hard to keep Changi as clean as the rest of Singapore in his bring yellow suit and dapper bow tie.
Final Impressions
Singapore left us with indelible impressions. It is a study in contrasts. A nation-city half the geographic size of Los Angeles with a population of 5.6 million people; it is 17 by 30 miles, and that includes a significant amount of land created by purchasing sand from nearby nations to build fill into the ocean. It is the single loudest city I’ve ever traveled to, including NYC, but has the complete serenity of the National Botanic Gardens within. It’s skyline is dominated by modern architecture, but its soul is clearly held in its historic cultural communities - working to preserve its heritage.
Despite a significant focus on their individual cultural identities (driven in no insignificant way by the geographic separation of different ethnicities by British colonialists, who assigned sections of the city to specific groups), the citizenry take care to let people know how happily different cultures and religions live and work together. It may be the single friendliest place I have ever traveled. Frequently, we didn’t even have a chance to ask for help before someone stopped and offered.
How fortunate that we paused at this "rest stop" on our way to Bali and fell in love.
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